Rise


Basics: Aioli
September 11, 2007, 3:19 pm
Filed under: Basics, Recipes

Title

I don’t know about where you are, but in Auckland (New Zealand) we seem to be just coming off the end of a three year love affair with the garlic mayonnaise, otherwise known as aioli. We’ve been spreading it, dipping it, drizzling it and practically drinking the stuff! It’s been pretty much the only option with frites anywhere you go and even some of the more (how can i put this nicely) “scum-bucket” type of establishments have begun putting this tasty little treat on the menu.

Now, everyone’s got their own way of treating this one, but the recipe below is mine (by various appropriations, credit to all who have added small bits and pieces along the way) I’ve kept it close to my chest now for quite some time now but, seeing as things now seem to be changing in direction within our local industry, I feel I can now safely let this little gem out into the wild.

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My first pizza…
September 10, 2007, 1:34 am
Filed under: Basics, Recipes

Title

So we’re trying out some new things at the restaurant end of my business endeavors. Namely, pizza! Having never made a pizza in my life (bar a few “make your owns” using pre-frozen bases, uck!) I was a wee bit apprehensive but, after a bit of reasearch I decided to give it a go. The result can be seen above.

For the crust i just appropriated the bread recipe from earlier on, minus oil and salt (enough of that on top!) and, of course rolled the whole thing dead flat! I thought I might try a square pizza, I’ve seen them overseas before, but never here in New Zealand. It all turned out pretty well, don’t you think?

By the way: this one’s topped with:

  • Kalamata olives
  • Cheeses (mozerella, feta & edam)
  • Spinach
  • Fresh cut tomato
  • Mushrooms

Plus of course, plenty of herbs and cracked pepper! For the base I simply took a tomato bisque we use in another dish and thickened it up by blending in more peeled tomatoes and lots of rosemary (a fair amount of simmering too!).

So we chucked the pizzas on the menu and all seems to be going pretty well, sold a heap last night, maybe it’s the start of a new thing for us…



Basic recipes: Hollandaise
September 6, 2007, 11:55 pm
Filed under: Basics, Opinion, Recipes

Hollandaise header

Excuse the rant, but why do so many cooks find hollandaise so difficult? How many times have I sat down to a Sunday brunch in some new eatery to find some semi-transparent goo dribbling off of my eggs benedict? Well, the answer is too many! So now, I feel I must do my part in combating this perilous plague of horrendous hollis by presenting you with mine own way… The truth about hollandaise!

This recipe was initially shown to me by a wonderful cook I worked under many moons ago (it may even have been my first hospo. job!) and, to this very day, I still use this recipe with very little variation in my own cafe. Now you may say, “sacre bleu! hollandaise must be hand whisked over heat to be “proper” (oh poo poo!) well, my answer is: show me a cook who has time to use the traditional method, and I will show you a cook with too much time on his hands! No, my (by proxy) recipe uses that all time favourite kitchen implement: the stick blender!

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

  • 5 egg yolks (organic eggs produce a thicker darker yolk which helps to avoid this catastrophe)
  • 1/2 a block (that’s stick for the Americans) of full fat butter (it’s hollandaise, not exactly prime dieting material!)
  • a pinch of salt
  • a pinch of pepper
  • 1 tsp. whole-grain mustard
  • 1 whole lemon (extracted lemon juice is an option, if you must)

So, pretty simple really. Start melting your butter (re: zap it) and whilst this is going on, place all your ingredients into a cylindrical container. Now, the shape of this container is all important, you need something that will keep all of the ingredients close together whilst blending, but it must also be wide enough to allow your stick blender to get all the way to the bottom. I find a medium sized milk jug seems to do the trick best. So, once your butter has become fully liquid, take your stick blender and start to blend the contents of your container, once combined, pour just a slight drop of the melted butter into your container whilst continuing to blend.

You should hear a slight gurgle as the contents combine, this is good, pour just a little bit more butter into the mix. When you hear this begin to gurgle you should start to pour the butter in in a small but steady dribble. Continue to increase the flow (slowly) until just before you have reached your desired consistency (somewhere around the consistency of p.v.a glue, not a nice thought) but it must be stressed, stop pouring before you reach the solids in the bottom of your butter container (that’s the little white bits of fat), if this goes into your mix; it’s all over!

So there we go, just a few notes though to finish off:

  1. Whole-grain mustard is not 100% necessary (I simply like the taste) and could be substituted for any other ingredient of choice (parsley is quite good, or maybe you could go the opposite route and add fresh garlic?).
  2. Make sure you use your hollis reasonably soon after making it, firstly, it will taste better but, you probably also want to avoid the possible food poisoning that can come with leaving raw eggs out in the open.
  3. Do not refrigerate your hollis! Its melted butter remember? You want it to stay melted.
  4. This is, most obviously, one of the least healthy components to food you could ever hope to come across so, no it doesn’t have the heart foundation tick and no it probably wont help that heart condition either.

As always: practice makes perfect so keep giving this a go until you get it right. At that point it’s just like riding a bike, it will stay with you for the rest of your life!

Till next time…



We start with bread…
September 3, 2007, 2:20 pm
Filed under: Basics, Recipes

Bread
Bread is life. Ever since man first toiled the mill stone (and probably much before that) he has combined wheat and water to create the staple meal; the corner stone of our very being. Bread tends to pop up everywhere; in religion (“give us today etc. etc.”) to modern colloquialisms (“to break bread”), from the the hardy crusted artisan loaves, to the delicate butter brioche: bread is all encompassing, a mass of swirling complexities all help together by one staple principle: flour + water = bread.

And so we start with bread…

A Basic Dinner Roll

  • 2cup flour (any kind, feel free to experiment!)
  • 1tsp active dry yeast
  • 1cup luke warm water
  • 1Tsp olive oil
  • a pinch of salt

Stir the yeast and water thoroughly until the water turns an opaque color of clay. Next add the flour gradually, making sure not to “overwhelm” your mixture. During this process throw in the salt and a dash of olive oil. You should continue to add flour until your mixture begins to “ball” and shows signs of resistance.

Now leave your mixture to sit. It’s recommended you leave it in a cool, dry environment, but anywhere reasonably warm should do the trick. Make sure you do not touch it for a good half hour…

Next, sprinkle a board with flour and turn your ball out onto it, work your ball around with the palms of your hand and continue to kneed more flour into the mix until your palms can no longer push through the dough and meet with a reasonable resistance. Now its time to do whatsoever you may please! Divide your mixture into 4 and sculpt and mold them to your hearts desire! Create! Trumpets, horns, rolls, and more! There are a million techniques and absolutely no rules, so enjoy!

Once you are satisfied with your creations, take an oven tray and smear it with the remaining olive oil, now place your rolls onto the tray and place in a hot oven (180 C will usually do the trick) and leave to cook for roughly 20-30 minutes.

You can tell your rolls are ready when you break one open and find the center soft and springy rather than doughy and limp. Now is the time to enjoy, don’t let your creations cool! Tear them open! Smear them with slabs of (full fat!) butter and devour them whole!

Bread is about life and so, should be enjoyed with zest and great vigor, consequences (including a burnt tongue) BE DAMNED!